Koorai Saree-Tamil Nadu

Sirumugai is the weaving hub of coimbatore district of Tamil Nadu. Koorai saree is a marriage saree which is worn specially during the time of Mangalsutra. There are many varieties of koorai saree in each place and for each community of Tamil Nadu. This blog is about Manjal Koorai pudavai or Yellow koorai saree of Devanga Chettiar community of Sirumugai. This sari was started when people of the village decided to weave a sari for the goddess, later, as years passed by, it became their profession. Sowdambigai Amman also known as sowd amman is the goddess of Sirumugai, Coimbatore district. Sowd Amman is always adorned by an in-skirt and the yellow sari which is hand woven. The sari is in yellow colour because yellow is considered to be auspicious. This was carried forward as a bridal sari of the village till date. After the marriage ceremony, every Friday the woman has to wear this yellow sari and visits the temple. The sari has to be worn until it gets old and torn.  This sari is worn even during pregnancy time by the woman.In the early 1900s, this sari was also worn by women without a blouse. The body of the saree is woven with yellow colour and the border with green. As trends changed over the years, women started wearing blouses. The weavers in Sirumugai take an off on New Moon Day (Amavasai) which is considered to be Fasting day (Nombu Naal) and they don’t work for the whole day and only after the sunrise they start their work. So on the fasting day, the people of the village will generally visit the Amman temple and they offer food & sari for the Amman. People of Devanga Chettiar community speak kannada.

Preparing Process:

Yarn Procurement:

This type of koorai saree is made out of only cotton. Cotton is procured from nearby Government Society. Only yellow and green yarns are used.

Yarn for saree weaving

Warp and Weft Preparation:

Warp beam is prepared by winding the yarns on the warp beam and weft is prepared by winding pirn using chakra.

Warp beam of sareeWarp beam of sirumugai manjal koorai saree

Yellow koorai sareeYellow yarn used in the koorai saree

Pirn WindingPirn winding of weft yarn

Weaving:

For weaving a saree the weaver takes around 3 days. Its a simple plain/solid colour cotton koorai saree.

Koora Pudavai

Koorai saree of Tamil Nadu

Current Scenario:

It was first started as a handloom sari with yellow colour for the plain body and plain border in green colour. Later as machines were introduced as there was technological development, the sari has been shifted to powerloom. The powerloom saree has design borders. Starch is added to the sari if more stiffness is required than the normal sari. Only one weaver who is 80 years old is working for this yellow handloom Koorai Saree.

Koorai Saree of Tamil NaduPowerloom Koorai saree of Sirumugai

Cotton Koorai saree of Tamil NaduPowerloom Koorai saree of Sirumugai